What
do you know about Costa Rica?
Costa
Rica – “one of those Caribbean or Central American Countries? – or was it maybe
at the top of South America? ”
I only ever had
a very vague idea about Costa Rica and actually knew nothing about it at
all. Now – after a few hours there – I
think it’s a great little country.
It is in Central
America – in that narrow isthmus bit - with Panama to the South and Nicaragua
to the North. Got a picture of
that? It stretches right across from the
Caribbean on the east through to the Pacific on the west.
Apparently
Columbus sailed the ocean blue more than once. He made three trips to America.
(‘Columbus sailed the ocean blue in fifteen hundred and two’ - see, it even
rhymes again). This was Christopher Columbus’s third and last trip to the
Americas. He landed on the East Coast and for some reason only he knew he
thought that it was the coast of a rich land.
Though the people were mainly subsistence farmers he named it “Rich
Coast” ie Costa Rica.
We docked at the
very long pier of Puntarenas on the West Coast. Although it was only 8 o’clock
on a Sunday, we could see kids swimming in the ocean and playing on the sand
near the inner end of the pier, but the pier itself was just that- a pier. A
long concrete track out into the bay – not even wide enough for the tour buses
to turn around, so they all backed out down the pier. Puntarenas used to be one
of the country’s best ports, but you wouldn’t know that from looking around.
We set off in
one of four coaches on the Princess Tour called “Scenic Drive, Cultural Show
and Shopping”. Does that sound vague? The town of Puntarenas is only small and
we were soon out into the country towards the next Province. Everything is green. I saw banana plants,
rain forest and lots of small houses in ones and twos along the roads. Houses
were a bit old fashioned and looked like a ‘Developing Country’ settlements.
Maybe they were like the houses from small Australian country towns in the late
1800s – single storied, two or three small bedrooms, vine covered verandahs
with old chairs out the front, and a corrugated iron roof that sat like a hat
about its ears.
Houses seemed to
have decorative bars on windows and doors. I didn’t see whether these had
insect wire. Our guide pointed out that this custom had probably been inherited
from the early Spanish settlers who were used to having decorative protection
on housing. There were lots of dogs relaxing in front yards and hens pecking
around. Not exactly pecking grass lawns, but pecking in the greenery around
houses. People relaxing on their verandahs (remember, it was a Sunday in a very
Catholic country) smiled and waved to us.
The roads we
travelled were good - Sealed surfaces and wide enough for one lane each way. Gutters
on both sides were metre deep troughs with straight walls, and inspired the thought it would be a sudden
disaster to put a wheel in one on a bend. Cars on the roads were fairly modern
and looked well kept. The rainforest came right to the road on both sides and
suggested lots of rain would be the reason for such deep gashes into soil and
rock on both sides of the road. Signs indicated this was the main road called
the ‘highway’ to the Capital City of San Jose, 70 miles inland, though it
didn’t look like the kind of‘ ‘highway’ we are used to.
Small towns we
passed through all had a central stone church, parks and shops. People were out
and about around the churches and in towns as Mass was generally about 10am –
and, as I said, this was a Sunday. Our guide pointed out there were no name signs
on streets. To my surprise, he said it was the custom not to have names of
streets, and you found a particular house by directions from some obvious place
like a church. It might be “two streets to the right, turn left and the third
house on the left”. It seemed to me that “21 Brown Street” would be easier than
“third house with a big tree”.
When I look back
at my impressions so far, it sounds like a third world country. Forgive me. I
believe it’s anything but ‘third world’. It may be still ‘developing’, but has
already come along way.
Costa Rica
declared independence from Spain in 1821, and these days is a politically
stable democracy, with an elected parliament. More impressive, in 1983 Costa
Rica made an official declaration of neutrality and dissolved its Defence
Force. The money released from the Army was put into education and every small
town now has a school. Education if free and compulsory, and the country has a
97% literacy rate. Primary and secondary schools are free and University is low
cost. For example, a year has two semesters and in First Year Uni, the fee is
$700 a semester. There are many private universities costing more, but a State
degree is more valued by employers because it is backed by rigorous standards
and examinations. Private universities may not have such high standards.
The main exports
are in technology, medical, and agricultural.
Technology: many
large technology companies have branches in Costa Rica. Intel is here, and many
other well known companies. I can’t remember now which ones they are. I guess
wages here are lower than in the US, and there’s a stable economy.
You don’t think
of Medical being a class of ‘export’.
There is a high standard of surgical, dental and other medical services.
So many people come from the US for procedures which cost about 30% below US
for the same thing. It was a surprise to me that there are many United States
citizens who choose to live in Costa Rica.
The country
values tourism of all kinds, especially the medical, but there’s a growing
market for Ecotourism. For whatever reason people come, they tend to stay or
return, travel about the country and contribute to the economy.
Coffee,
originally introduced from Cuba, was a valuable cash crop when independence
came from Spain. The country has rich volcanic soils so can grow lots of
tropical crops. Some of these have been cacao, tobacco and sugar. With the
change of society’s attitudes to sugar, it has dwindled in importance, except a
contract with Coca Cola for sugar sustains this production. The big exports of Costa Rica today are fresh
fruits – pineapples and bananas – and of course coffee. 47% of coffee export
ends in the US.
Our first stop
on our ‘scenic’ tour was at ‘El Jardin’ – a craft display and co-operative
market for the artisans of this area. We were welcomed with free samples of the
tropical fruit of the area, a delicious drink made from the fruits, and sample
cups of Costa Rican coffee. The coffee was full of flavour without any bitterness
that coffee often has. I have been sorry ever since that I didn’t buy a packet
to take back to Australia with me. They offered free postage of purchases to
USA – but, alas, Australia would be too far. I’ve been trying to be cautious
with buying stuff as I’ve already been worrying how I’m going to pack to go
home with all the extra bits and pieces
I’ve already acquired. And what’s more, that’s a question Bruce has also been
raising loudly and often.
The arts and
crafts were colourful and very enticing. I ended up buying a notebook with
paper made from Banana (remember I mentioned ‘eco-tourism? and I believe the
nation is big into recycling stuff as well). There was a choice of paper made
from unused parts of other fruits, and vegetation. I also succumbed to the
attraction of a brightly coloured wooden Scarlet Macaw bird about 30cms tall
for a spot on a wall. A thought – I wonder how Australian Customs feel about a Scarlet
Macaw bird made from rainforest wood?
El Jardin at least had an address. (San Ramon, Alajuela, Costa Rica) Not a
street name and number but a regional address. It also has a web address (www.eljardin.co.cr)
and an email address (eljardincr@racsa.co.cr).
Not that I’m likely to be using any of them but I could if I wanted to.
That brings up
another thought. There is no internet shopping possible in Costa Rica because
no one has a delivery address. I suppose there might be Post Office Box
addresses and the like, but our guide insisted that internet buying was rare,
even if the young people were as IT savvy as anywhere else in the world, liking
the latest ipod, ipad, mobile phone as in any other country.
Our last stop
for the day was at a park in one of the small towns, Esparza, which boasted a
central park, plaza and church. Here a small group of local school children
with their teachers put on a short programme of dance. These were primary
school kids presenting a form of local dance and dress. The two tiny 5 year
olds were very cute in their very full skirts of layered colours which they held
out as they swished and sashayed. The eight girls and three boys entertained
us, and had a fun ‘mock bull fight’. One little larrikan put on a wooden bull’s
head and charged the girls – and even members of the audience who took part
with enthusiasm. I believe they do have ‘bull fights’ but the bulls are not
harmed they said, and it is just a display of clever men dancing and ‘playing’ with the bulls.
What else would
I like to say about Costa Rica? It’s small. Under 20,000 square miles. We were
told it’s about the size of West Virginia. I’m not familiar with West Virginia
so I can’t say what would be an Australian equivalent. Its only 275 miles from
North to South, and the Isthmus is narrow. It has a population of about four
and a half million people.
Temperatures are
roughly an even 28°C all year and it rains all the time, though we had a dry,
overcast day – quite humid. Our guide said there are two seasons: “wet” and
“wetter”. Hence those deep troughs on both sides of the road to San Jose.
I went back to
the ship with a good feeling about Costa Rica. One day I would like to come
back and see a few more its excellent tourist facilities the other passengers
enjoyed. One was a kind of aerial tram that took them above the forest among
the birds and butterflies and tree tops. There was a nature walk and a boat
ride that people enjoyed a lot. Others enjoyed their visit to a coffee
plantation where they were shown every part of the process of producing coffee.
The lunch
provided for some of the tourists was a traditional buffet featuring the common
dish eaten most days by locals - salad, grilled chicken or meat and “gallo
pinto”- a dish of white rice (imported), black beans, onion, peppers and spices
all fried together.
Although the
likelihood of my coming back to Costa Rica is low due to my age, disability and
the distance from where I live, I take away warm appreciation, admiration, and
a general ‘good feeling’ from my visit here.
